Tag Archives: Seminole

The Rolling Hills of Brooksville

11 Dec

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Heading north on SR 41, rolling hills appear on the horizon. Chinsegut Hill is one of Florida’s highest points at 269 feet.  Only a couple of locations along The Lake Wales Ridge in central Polk County boast greater heights. There are so many picturesque places in Florida to explore, yet so few that match the charm of a 5 square mile town nestled in the hills of eastern Hernando County. This is Brooksville, a place where you may forget you are still in Florida.  The rolling hills of Brooksville are a special destination on an otherwise sprawling coast.dsc06259

As a child, I remember the old-fashioned Sunday afternoon drives with my family. Everyone would pile in the car, and we would take off to nowhere in particular. My brother and I usually ended up asleep in the back seat. I can’t think of a better Sunday drive than veering onto one of the narrow back roads and driving through the eastern Hernando alpine prairie.

Forest-covered limestone and ancient sand dunes define this part of the state. The historic city of Brooksville lies twelve miles southeast of Florida’s geographic center. Even its location has a unique story. Hernando County was once triple the size of what it is today. In 1877, the state separated it into three counties, Pasco to the south and Citrus to the north. Back in 1856, four families established the city of Brooksville; the Howells to the north, the Mays to the east, the Hales in the west, and the Parsons to the south. Named after, Preston Brooks, a South Carolina congressman,  their new town of Brooksville was a consolidation of two communities established in the 1840s, Melendez and Pierceville.

During the period, the land surrounding Melendez and Pierceville was essential to trade along the west coast of Florida. Ft. Desoto (no relation to the Ft. Desoto in Pinellas County) served as not only a stop for the Concord Stage Line that ran from Palatka to Tampa, but also as a trading post and as protection for settlers from Seminole Indians. The abandonment of the fort is what actually gave rise to city of Brooksville. While the high terrain made the Fort location attractive, it was constructed on a bed of limestone which made obtaining water difficult. The settlers eventually abandoned the location and moved just to the southwest. Their new settlement became Brooksville. A private residence now sits on the landmark location where the old fort once was with no evidence of its existence to be found except what is written in history.

dsc06248While the nation fought the Civil War in the 1860s, eastern Hernando County supplied Confederate soldiers with cotton and lumber. In 1864, Union troops attacked the Confederate-held city of Brooksville to destroy the supply line. Despite a valiant attempt to protect the city, the Confederate troops were defeated in what is now known as the Brooksville Raid. The event is re-enacted each January near Weeki Wachee.

Today, Brooksville is known for historic southern homes lining cobblestone streets reminiscent of those you might find in Savannah, Georgia or Charleston, South Carolina. Take a walking tour through the downtown where buildings and businesses date back to the early 1900s. A stop at Roger’s Christmas House is a must for holiday enthusiasts even in the heat of summer where an array of themed buildings contain antique and artistic Christmas decor along with household accessories sure to fit any style. Grab lunch or afternoon tea at The Tilted Teacup. Then, visit the May-Stinger House Museum, check out a train depot from the late 1800s or a one room school-house still standing, all within walking distance from one another. It’s easy to spend an entire day exploring this quaint American town.

The area around Brooksville, known locally as The Nature Coast, is an outdoor lover’s dream! Once home to settlers and Seminoles, it’s bordered to the east and west by the Chassahowitzka Wildlife Management Areas. The Withlacoochee State Forest provides the anchor. One of the most attractive areas to outdoor enthusiasts is the Croom Wildlife Tract near Ridge Manor, a 20,000-acre wildlife area featuring dozens of miles of hiking, horseback riding, bicycling and motorcycle trails. The hilly terrain makes it great for getting into shape to do longer more strenuous hikes in the mountains or an

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Croom is a great hiking destination

ywhere else you may find yourself exploring in the future. Silver Lake is ideal for hunting or camping. Fish or kayak the 13 miles of the Withlacoochee River that cuts through the Croom Tract. The Florida National Cemetery rests along the east border. Interstate 75 provides easy access to everything.

When someone says Florida, the images that first comes to mind are usually those of
beaches and palm trees. However, there are some parts of Florida that get so little attention, they are practically unknown.  These treasures don’t fit the ideal portrait of sun and sand. They’re not advertised all over the world as a top tourist destination. Some who have lived here all their lives know as much about them as someone who lives a thousand miles away. Brooksville may be called a sleepy town. It may be thought of as dull. The lifestyle may be considered slow. The beauty of a gem is that on the surface it looks like a rock. It’s not until you look deeper that the beauty within the crusty shell is revealed. Only those trained with that special eye appreciate its rough appearance. Brooksville is the gem of the Nature Coast.

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So, the next time you are sitting in the living room with that urge to get out and do something new, think of how it was a century ago. Automobiles changed the world. They gave rise to the afternoon drive allowing entire families to get out and explore their surroundings. They loaded the car and drove into the untamed countryside for a picnic or maybe to a neighboring town to see old friends or family. The automobile brought people together and they put towns on the map. The automobile made it possible for sleep old towns like Brooksville to shed its outer crust and expose the extraordinary within. The world may have changed. Technology may have evolved. But people will always have that desire to explore, to get out on the open road and find something hidden, something extraordinary! And there is nothing more extraordinary than those rolling hills of Brooksville?

The Winding Weeki Wachee

11 Jan

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The Florida Nature Coast extends from Pasco county, just north of Tampa Bay, up though the Big Bend to Wakula county in the panhandle. Known for its pristine forests and waterways, this coastline has been gaining international attention over recent years for one of the largest and most unique annual manatee gathering events in the world. Many of the rivers here originate as springs flowing up from the Florida aquifer deep underground. The rivers snake their way from these springs to the Gulf of Mexico maintaining a constant 74 degree temperature year around. The water is as clear as bath water and 98 percent pure, as pure as the spring water you buy in the grocery store. During the winter, thousands of manatees migrate to these rivers to escape the chilly Gulf of Mexico waters. Along with them, nature lovers from around the world congregate to witness the spectacle, kayak, and even swim with the gentle giants. Though not the most notorious thanks to media coverage of hot spots for wildlife viewing like Crystal Springs, the winding Weeki Wachee River may be one of the most beautiful waterways not just in Florida, but perhaps in all of the United States.

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The Main Spring

The river is fed by a large spring near the busy intersection of US Hwy 19 and SR 50 (Cortez Blvd) in Hernando County’s Spring Hill. There is a park entrance for Weeki Wachee Springs on the south side of the intersection. 117 million gallons of water flows from the main spring daily. Such and enormous amount of water has to go somewhere so it forms a shallow crystal clear bay locals call Buccaneer Bay. The entrance to the park is $13 for adults and $8 for kids. It may seem expensive compared to other state parks, but Weeki Wachee Springs is more than an ordinary state park. Buccaneer Bay is a popular swimming and picnicking spot complete with tube rentals, water slides, a snack concession and even a traditional bar. Access to Buccaneer Bay is included with the park admission, but tube rentals and lockers are extra. The main spring is on the south side of the bay. It’s fenced off so no swimming is allowed in the main spring unless you’re a mermaid.

You read that correctly, a mermaid! Weeki Wachee Springs is home to the famous live Florida Mermaid Show that goes back long before Walt Disney transformed the central Florida tourism industry. The name Weeki Wachee can be attributed to the Seminole Indians meaning “little spring” or “winding river.” Interestingly, there is nothing little about the spring. The bottom has never been found to this day. The original Weeki Wachee theme park was established in 1947 by a local businessman named Newton Perry. Intended as a roadside attraction, it grew into a popular tourist destination thanks to the mermaid show. It reached the height of it’s popularity in the 1970s. As the park fell into decay over recent years, the state stepped in to transform  it into a very unique state park. They kept the mermaid attraction which is included with the park admission. Also remaining is a 30 minute boat ride down the Weeki Wachee River from Buccaneer Bay. Ghostly remnants of the old theme park are evident just about everywhere as you stroll through the 538 acre property.

While the main spring and bay that the spring forms may be a haven for the tourists, the real draw for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts lies further downstream. Rent a kayak from one of many local rental venues to really experience life on river. From Buccaneer Bay, the river flows steadily toward the Gulf of Mexico for about 12 miles. Though the spring may be bottomless, the Weeki Wachee is a shallow river, less than 2 feet deep in some parts. It’s also a misleading because of it’s clarity. You may hop in to cool off expecting the water to be waist deep and shockingly realize it’s twice that depth. I mentioned the water is always 74 degrees! If you forget before you jump it, you’ll remember quickly. Though it may look like nice bath water, it’s cold bath water!

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School of Mullet

You won’t be alone in the water either. The water is teaming with fish that are tolerant to both salt and fresh water such as mullet. Schools of large mullet are common well upstream. And yes, there are alligators, just not as common as you might find in other Florida waterways. It’s tough for gators to ambush prey when the water is so clear and cool. You’ll usually find them on the banks warming their body temperature. But even if you don’t see them they are likely lurking around somewhere.

In the summer, manatees migrate further off shore to the warmer gulf water, but in the winter, manatee sighting are common in the deeper parts of the river. You won’t see them near the main spring or Buccaneer Bay. You have to take a trip down river where the curious creatures may even swim up to greet you. Manatees are gentle mammals and they are vegetarians so enjoy the once in a lifetime experience. Take a lot of pictures to share the experience.

The river flows northwest once it leaves the spring through a sparsely populated stretch before turning west into the Weeki Wachee Gardens subdivision. From there, the river widens joining with the Mud River then spilling into the Gulf of Mexico. My dad told me stories of driving up to the Weeki Wachee as a teenager. He even told me they took me there when I was a kid. I don’t remember, but it shows that not much has changed. Sure the land area around it has grown and changed with the times, but the and area within has remained the same. Hats off to the parks department for keeping it that way. Though it may not appear on any national lists of top destinations and thankfully so due to it’s pristine nature, memories are still made here. From a child swimming in Buccaneer Bay to a Florida native taking in the solitude of one of the nature coasts many jewels or a tourist seeing a manatee up close for the very first time, everyone  must appreciate the Weeki Wachee river for being as winding and pure today as it was when the Seminoles roamed its banks.

 

 

Myakka – Gateway to the Everglades!

15 Jun

The most staggering part of exploring Florida is the diversity of the ecosystems throughout the state. Thick pine scrubs and high prairies dominate the northern peninsula highlighted by the Ocala National Forest. Here you’ll find forest dwellers like black bear, deer, fox and bob cat. Swamps and lakes cover the interior middle of the state from Tampa to Orlando and down the spine to Lake Okeechobee. These are the headwaters for the slow-moving Withlacoochee, Hillsborough and Kissimmee Rivers. Your more likely to run into deer, egrets, hawks, eagles, otter and alligators in this sub-tropical, swampy setting. Heading due south from Tampa Bay, the soil becomes much more sandy and shallow. Saw palmettos and palm trees stretch across a flat endless coastal landscape that eventually gives way to the marshy grasslands of the Everglades. To get to this sanctuary, you must traverse Myakka, a long river basin that stretches from west of Bradenton to Charlotte Harbor on the southwest Florida coast. It’s easily accessed from anywhere off I-75 through Manatee, Sarasota and Charlotte counties.

The Myakka River in Sarasota County

The Myakka River has been the life blood of this area for thousands of years. The river snakes it way southwest through the three counties toward Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf of Mexico. The river was first discovered along with the Peace River by Ponce De Leon. The Spanish explorer did not give either river their current name, but historical records indicate he made port in Charlotte Harbor during his first visit to Florida in search of gold and the legendary Fountain of Youth. Some believe a spring near the City of North Port called Warm Mineral Springs might be the legend De Leon was searching for and that the Myakka River was the river that would have taken him to it. There is no evidence he ever visited the spring or even voyaged far enough up the river to have found it, but there is archaeological evidence ancient Paleo Indians buried their dead in the area of the spring some ten thousand years ago. Perhaps they believed the water had healing or rejuvenating powers and that’s how the legend began?

The term Myakka is believed to have come from the Seminole term Miarca which means big water. This should be no surprise! Those who live in southern Florida know the Myakka River is one of the first rivers to flood during periods of heavy rain.

MyakkaProbably the most popular place to access the river and explore the Myakka basin is to visit Myakka River State Park off SR 72 near Sarasota. I like to think of the 58 square miles of the park as a gateway from Central to South Florida. The Myakka River meanders southwest from its source in Manatee county through the park , but the real highlight is Lake Myakka on the northern boundary.Birdwalk into the Lake Myakka shallows

At dusk I’ve seen multiple deer crossing the road near the lake with not a care in the world about my presence. I watched a Bald Eagle through binoculars while standing on the Birdwalk. She emerged from the treetops on the opposing bank. At first I didn’t know what it was other than a really big bird. Soon enough her striking features became evident. I was in awe. She swiped a fish cleanly out of the lake on her first attempt, then soared gracefully over my head carrying her prize in her talons. It was like something right out of  a nature show. Armadillo and wild pigs have scurried across the hiking trails right in front of me. They never stopped to pay me homage. Of course, my heart stopped while I stood there frozen in astonishment.

There are miles of these hiking trails throughout the park including 39 miles of the Florida NationaMyakka River State Park air boat tourl Scenic Trail. If the hiking sounds a little too dramatic, rent a canoe or kayak from the Outpost. Take a boat or tram tour of the park. Grab a snack. There are plenty of picnic areas. Whether it be boating, fishing, horseback riding,  or camping, Myakka River State Park has it all for the adventurer who dares to pay the $6.00 per vehicle entrance fee. The one thing I would not recommend, however, is swimming. The park has a heavy population of alligators. Alligator resting in the Myakka RiverRemember, always be alert around any body of fresh water when exploring Florida. Obey signs that designate no fishing or swimming. They’re there for your safety. Above all, never feed the alligators. That’s for everyone else’s safety!

For a little more of a subdued pace especially if you’re a hiking enthusiast like me, head further south on I-75 to the Myakka State Forest near North Port. There is a parking lot off River Road where you can access two loop trails; the 6 mile north loop and 7.4 mile south loop. These are excellent easy hikes for introducing the kids to the hiking experience. Depending on your pace you can accomplish either loop in under three hours. The trails are wide. Most importantly, there are no roots to trip over as my son would say because the terrain is flat and open prairie dominated primarily by saw palmettos and long leaf pine. What I like most about the Myakka State forest is the way the sound of the wind cutting through the palm prongs creates a sense of isolation. I definitely recommend wearing a hat and sunscreen regardless of the time of year, though. With the terrain being so open, the trails are exposed to the elements. Both loops are part of the Florida Trailwalker Program.

Myakka State Forest North Loop Myakka State Forest Honey Bee Boxes

Florida is known for slow-moving winding rivers that traverse the state connecting lakes and tributaries that all end up in either the Gulf of Mexico or the Atlantic Ocean. It all culminates the further south you go with the ultimate slow-moving river, the Florida Everglades. Myakka is where these two worlds meet. Life flourishes here whether it’s a prehistoric alligator or a tiny sparrow. People have thrived in Myakka for ten thousand years. In many areas the land remains the way it has been for centuries, a portal in time if you will, a gateway to the watery wilderness of the Everglades. The big waters of Myakka play as big a role as any in the survival of such a treasured place. When the floods come, it’s just the voices of the past reminding us of that. It’s definitely worth the visit.

Welcome to Snook Haven The Menu Snook Haven Live Entertainment on the Myakka River

Visit Snook Haven for a quick bite, good music and all around good time just off I-75 near Venice right on the Myakka River!

Little Big Econ – Walk In the Footsteps of Ponce de Leon

7 Dec

Horseback riders cross the Econlockhathcee River

The date is April 2, 1513. A prominent Spanish explorer, using his own money, sets out to find new islands of riches believed to be located somewhere northwest of Puerto Rico and Hispaniola. He arrives at a destination and gives it the name La Florida after the Festival of Flowers during Easter, Pascua Florida. Juan Ponce de Leon comes ashore somewhere between St. Augustine and Melbourne, spending five days on what he thinks is an island . He never ventures far from the coast or his ships, nor is he particularly welcomed by the Native Americans that inhabit the area.

Eventually he moves on, heading south along the coast. What were the thoughts running through the mind of this man as he left the beach to board his ship, the Santiago, on a clear spring night with billions of stars shining down on a black ocean? He had already seen many strange things in his lifetime, visited countless foreign lands, and skirmished with those that inhabited them. Most of all, what makes him return 8 years later to settle the land? His plans go terribly wrong. He is mortally wounded in an attack by the natives. He flees to Cuba where he dies. Were his final thoughts as he lay dying of this mysterious world of endless foliage? He envisioned a new beginning and instead met a violent end. We’ll never know his last thoughts, but we know he changed the world. The European conquest of the North American continent had begun.

Legend says he was in search of the Fountain of Youth, but that search rarely took him away from the coast. Often they were met by resistance so it was probably safer not to press inland. But what if he had? What if Ponce de Leon explored Florida enough to learn about the heart of the land. The natives knew it well. They loved it enough to fight for it and die for it. The Calusa and Mayaimi tribes understood what made the heart of Florida pump the rivers and streams south to the Everglades which in turn fed the rich waters of Florida Bay. The Seminoles were the last to protect it, but eventually they too gave in to conquest after engaging the Spanish and the Americans in three wars. 1845 saw it all end when Florida became part of the United States. Thick Cabbage Palms

Ponce de Leon really never knew La Florida. I often wonder what it would have been like to see the land through his eyes had he accomplished his last mission, settled the land and written about it. I found a place where I felt like I was doing just that. Little Big Econ State Forest is located in Seminole County just north of Orlando. You can access the forest in the small town of Oviedo off County Road 426 or along Snowhill Road. It’s a two-hour drive from Tampa, but only fifteen or twenty minutes from downtown Orlando. It helps to have a Sun Pass or bring plenty of change. If you’re not familiar with Orlando, the toll roads are the quickest way to get around and that is how the GPS will take you unless you set it to avoid tolls. This is a place where you truly feel like your stepping back in time so however you get here will soon be irrelevant.

The Florida National Scenic Trail and The Flagler Trail intersect here where the old-growth is memorizing.  The Econlockhatchee River bisects the forest and the trails stay close to the river. Small creeks spider out in different directions from the main river so the forest service helps Trailwalkers by strategically placing wooden foot bridges along the main trails. My son and I did a 4.7 mile loop called the Kolokee Trail Loop which runs from the parking area off Barr St and CR 426 along the river to The Flagler Trail, then into the pine and oak hammocks before looping back down to the river.

Amazing Sprawling Oak TreeThe size of and shapes of the trees made the biggest impression on me during this three-hour hike. I literally felt like a Spanish explorer making his way along the narrow path. From sprawling oak trees covered in mosses and ferns to cabbage palm tree patches that rival three-story buildings you can feel the hundred year old spirits guiding you with each step. Pine trees do their best impression of California Redwoods that any tree growing in our sandy soil can do.

The Florida Trail and the Flagler Trail meet at a bridge that crosses the Econlockhatchee which was formerly part of the Flagler Railroad System. The old trestles are still there. Standing over the gentle flowing current I imagined those that inhabited the banks fishing the plentiful waters while the children swam and played. Fish the size of my forearm swam right below my feet so I knew this was always a place of bounty. Up the trail a few hundred yards an alligator rested in a small pond. Turtles enjoyed unusual afternoon warmth for late fall. I even came across a small box tortoise scooting along the trail. This is a place that can never be changed because it never has been changed. I felt that this is a piece of Florida that must be very close to its heart. It had already become a part of my heart.Bridge where the railroad once crossed the Econlockhatchee River, now part of the Florida Trail

It began to rain during the  stretch back to the trail head. We walked in the rain for a good half an hour. Normally when you spend that amount of time in the rain you end up drenched. The trees were so thick in places with canopies of palms that we ended up more on the damp side than what I would consider wet. I could tell Little Big Econ is no stranger to rain. It’s only twenty to thirty miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean. There was zero chance of rain when we left Tampa, but a stiff northeast wind in early December had another forecast in mind for that part of the state. Other than some muddy shoes we ended our hike no worse for wear.

There is no traditional camping in the Little Big Econ State Forest, but there are miles of hiking trails, horseback riding trails and biking trails. You can canoe or fish as long as you have a state fishing license. It’s not the largest forest, but size does not equate to substance, and this forest has what you’re looking for if your into nature the way nature was meant to be seen; undisturbed and isolated. Walking in the Little Big Econ is truly like walking in the footsteps of Ponce de Leon.

Rest area where the Florida Trail and Flagler Trail intersect Alligator resting in a pond Ferns and mosses make an ecosystem of their own on the trunks of the huge oak trees

The Econlockhatchee River Footbridge along The Florida Trail Old Growth

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